Monday, May 21, 2012

Great Swamp National Wildlife Refuge/Lord Stirling Park




I know New Yorkers have an allergy to all things Jersey, but we nature enthusiasts know that the woods do not discriminate. See, New Yorkers are used to the Jersey right over the Hudson River — smokestacks, industrial facilities, Paramus — but if they take New Jersey Transit a good 40 minutes in any direction, they'll quickly realize what we naturalists already intrinsically know: that New Jersey lives up to its name as the Garden State. I just discovered this pleasing truth for myself after visiting my first two NJ parks ever: Great Swamp National Wildlife Refuge and its smaller neighbor to the west, Lord Stirling Park. Composed of wetlands, marshes, and swamps, the two parks offer a very special glimpse into a wonderfully preserved habitat for some of the nicest birds and waterfowl within 40 miles of Times Square. Birds with wingspans you've never seen flying at low altitudes, none of them flinching a bit — this is truly their land and not ours. It was a pleasure to be a visitor.

Getting there is not terribly easy. The buses are a hassle, so I took the train. The train drops you off in either Gillette or Stirling, and from each stop it's about an hour walk till you get to the Swamp. For me, an hour walk goes by pretty quickly, but if you're of the type that's looking to conserve energy and frame the day with just the park, then rent a car. One of the main issues is the lack of sidewalks on these roads. Just be careful to walk so cars can see you. Also, this area is pretty barren and strictly residential, so bring food and water — enough for the day.

The day I went was drizzly, so the wooded trails were impossible to travel on because of puddle coverage. I was able however to walk the Wildlife Observation Center. This was especially moving. A good portion of the center is boardwalks, meaning built-in trails on lands that don't support footpaths. The boardwalks create an intimate experience as you walk through a type of forest you're not used to walking through. Look beneath you: you'll see some amazing waterfowl and turtles. But the ultimate reason you go to this park are for what's above: the birds. At the end of each boardwalk trail are little observation blinds (about the size of three office cubicles) that you enter and can watch the birds clandestinely. Be sure to look on the wall at the bird guide. Sparrows, hawks, blue jays (extraordinary), cardinals, and others grace this park, and are not shy. Make sure to visit every single blind; it's a small set of trails, and you can manage this section of the Refuge in 45 minutes.

Lord Stirling Park, on foot, is about a 45 minute walk from Great Swamp. I took Whitebridge Rd. — a straight (also sidewalk-less) road that showed off some of the shabbier aspects of residential NJ, and also some beautiful evergreen trees. One of the gems of this part of the day was the totally surprising, and 100% free and donation-sponsored refuge for birds called The Raptor Trust. Located off the side of the road, The Raptor Trust is basically a bird hospital with caged birds for viewing. Some of the most astonishing birds there were the bald eagles and the owls. Don't get too close to the cage, or you might get a jolt of surprise. The guides there are very nice, and the plaques on the cages for each bird are highly informative.

Lord Stirling Park is a more immersive experience than Great Swamp — there's a lot more petty hiking and a lot more educational resources. With more detailed trails than Great Swamp, the whole park is smaller, and, in truth, less grand of an experience. Some trails go around mere ponds, or through small meadows, and the trails are a bit less hiker-friendly than in Great Swamp. The birds are a bit more wild here; I've had to pause for a turkey crossing. It's a fun park if you're expectations are not too high.

Wrap up your day with some pizza nearby the Stirling train station. The train runs every hour.

Cost:$24 Off-Peak Round Trip on NJ Transit; no admission fees for Great Swamp, The Raptor Trust, or Lord Stirling Park.

Public Transportation: Train: NJ Transit from Penn Station to Gillette or Stirling

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